|Ryan on Mini Cave Center|
One Inch Punch is a tall prow with a somewhat funky landing in a rocky gully. Starting on the arete, you throw up right to a jug pocket and then pull up and commit to the arete. The first move gave me more trouble than it should have and it took me a while to figure out the thin upper moves on the arete, but soon enough I figured everything out and got the send. It's a really cool problem, but I would suggest at least three pads and a good spotter.
Next, Ryan gave a few more tries on Mini Cave Center and then we headed over to the Plague Boulder. I tried The Plague (V10) and Ryan tried Hooked on Bubonics (V8) for a little while, but I cut a hole in my finger on one of the razor sharp holds, so had to give up on that one. Darkness set in and we headed up Cedar Mountain to camp.
|The tape holding my cut finger together, stuck in one of the |
last holds on The Plague
We woke up on Saturday morning to cold, windy conditions. After a cold breakfast, we headed back to the Sphinx Boulders where we found calmer conditions. We warmed up on the Sphinxter Boulder, which has some fun, juggy problems out a steep roof to somewhat commiting, sandy top-outs. After that, we headed back to the Toadstool and Ryan was able to get the send on Mini Cave Center.
|Topping out on The Sphinxter (V0)|
|Ryan on Mini Cave Center|
Next up was a problem called Park County Sushi (V7/8). Two moderate moves to the lip lead to a slopey top-out. I was able to figure out a tall person sequence for the top and was able to send it fairly quickly. After wandering around for a while, we came across a cool, blank boulder with two finger pockets drilled all the way up it. This is somewhat common at the Sphinx Boulders and I usually don't try these problems, but this one looked pretty fun, so we gave it a try. After a few tries, I made it to the lip and while struggling on the slopey top-out realized the route's creator even drilled a pocket in the top of the flat boulder. Really? Whatever.
After a spree of V0 tennis shoe ascents, we heaed over to the I.P.S. Boulder. Both Ryan and I were able to do Four Inches (V4), a fun campus problem off slopers and then we started trying the sit down start, Six Inches (V6). After many tries of thinking it was impossible, I finally figured out a heel-toe sequence and was able to send shortly after. Ryan donated some blood to this problem and finally had to throw in the towel due to pain. After a few easier problems, we returned to the car, which amazingly hadn't blown away yet.
|Campusing on 4 Inches|
|Ryan on 6 Inches|
After a check of Sunday's weather (looking grim) and the prospect of another cold, windy night around the camp fire, we decided to bail back to Bozeman. It was a fun trip and I wish we could have had another day of climbing, but the wind was really taking it out of us and it looked like it might snow the next day anyway. I look forward to getting back down there and checking out some different areas, hopefully in calmer conditions!